Sunday, December 14, 2008

Little Shit's

NIC H'DEZ

PPPPIIIIKAAACHUUUU!!! ph Nick Borelli

Little Nic H’dez is a local grom who’s been turning heads for quite some time now. Under the tutelage of SC Legend Adam Replogle, Nic has developed a smooth and technical style which is impressive for a youngster of his age. His chubby little chipmunk cheeks and ear to ear grin just make you wanna hug the little feller, while his Curren like cutbacks prompt considering retirement. He’s like a little Pikachu doll worming through the lineup, giggling and squeaking all the while. It will be interesting to see what happens when he fills out, and I’m going to safely bet that its going to be big things!


Insight

Gulp!
INSIGHT-WINTER TIME
by Neal Kearney, As seen in Surfshot magazine. www.surfshot.com

MIKE PARSONS

NK-What does Winter mean to you?
MP-Cold water, less crowds, big waves.
NK-How do you prepare yourself for Winter?
MP-The approach to winter I start to feel excited the thought of big surf and off- shore wind cold water definitely what I live for. I also start to get nerves I know it will be real big soon and I start to think if I am ready. its the same feeling every October. As for preparation I try to really get in the water a lot just surf tell I can’t surf anymore. Try to be in great shape and mentally strong which for me comes from surfing.
NK-Heaviest Winter surf trip?
MP-Last year Cortez bank January. Myself, Brad Gerlach, Twiggy and Greg Long. Biggest waves of my life, just the four of us out. Definitely the best day of surfing in my Life. Just hoping for another day like that again.
TARIK KHASHOGGI
NK-How do you prepare for Winter?mentally?physically?
TK-Generally the surf is pretty small around Santa Barbara during the summer and getting good waves or even staying in the water can be challenging. I've found that for me the best way to stay on top of my game is to travel constantly during the summer especially south of the border to some of the big ledge beach breaks. This not only keeps me sane during flat summer months but also so that when winter rolls around it doesn't take so long to brush of those Cobb webs.
NK-Favorite Winter surf destination? why?
TK-Well I have to say that I have traveled to quite a few destinations throughout our winter months but the fact is some of the best waves I have gotten have been right here on the central coast. Although I do love spending time in Hawaii and there are few (if any) places that compare too the barrels on the North Shore, we have some insane waves right here at home that I'm usually bummed if I miss. I've actually flown home early from trips to score waves at home that rarely break, and am pretty damned stoked I did.
NK-Heavy Winter story?
TK-The heaviest thing that has ever happened to me happened 6 years ago on the North Shore. It was a pretty solid 8 to 10 foot day at sunset, I was sitting pretty deep on the bowl when this monster left came through. Going left is usually a bad idea out there considering the bone yard you end up in. The last thing I remember as the thing shut down on me was all those coral heads boiling up in front of me. I went of over the falls and took one of those pylons directly to the face. The pain was by no means unbearable but when I surfaced there was so much blood I figured I wasn't doing so good. I made my way to the beach and started to head back up to the house I was staying at. As I was walking up the beach this girl came running up to me asking if I needed to go to the hospital and that she could call an ambulance for me. I didn't think I was that bad, told her I was fine and walked up to the house. When I got back all the guys I was staying with started freaking out and when I finally looked in the mirror I immediately got really light headed and almost fainted. The wound below and above my right eye was pretty substantial. My lower eyelid had been completely torn back leaving the lower eye socket exposed. There was another large gash just above my eye about 3/4 of inch long. My friends quickly rushed me to the hospital in Wahiawa, and I remember distinctly the doctor jumping back in shock when I removed the bandage I had been holding over my eye. He ended up examining the wounds and told me he could not fix them considering all the muscle and tendon had been stripped from the bone. He explained that I would need a plastic surgeon if I ever wanted my eye to look normal again. As I left the hospital, a bit nervous to say the least, I called my mom and explained what had happened. As it turns out we had a family friend in Honolulu that was a plastic surgeon and eyelid specialist at that. LUCKY! After a four hour surgery which included forty interior stitches to put back together the muscle and tendon, twenty exterior stitches to close up the wound and then another ten to close up the cut above my eye I walked out with a massive headache. It's been six years since the incident and the job sowing up my eye was so good you can barely even notice a scar. The funny thing is though every time I'm back in Hawaii and I see some of those big left barrels coming through sunset I still get the urge to go get one. Maybe next time ill make it..
NK-favorite big wave spot?
TK-There are a bunch of big wave spots on the central coast that are unbelievable when they're on. I also have had some great sessions out at Rockpile in Hawaii.
NK-favorite big wave surfer?
TK-I love watching Flea, he's a Fucking maniac!!!
ADAM REPLOGLE
I really like the feeling of the seasons changing. The rain tells me its winter and next comes the smells of winter that bring back childhood memories. That has always got me pumped. Santa Cruz gets just enough rain to enjoy and never to much. Some of our best waves are formed by rain or the storm that usually comes w/rain. I really never feel like I am ready for winter and before you know it its here. Physically I try and surf as much as possible and cross train with tow surfing and long boarding. P.T once told me that the best training for surfing was surfing, so I try and surf as much as my life will let me. Mentally, I try and be as confident as i can be by being prepared. Do your home work, figure your guns out before you need them. Stuff like that. I freak out when the surfs good, everything come to a halt and then I call one of my surf partners Al, Mulcoy, Noi, Homer or Skindog alls these guys wake up early and will surf just about anything.
My favorite part about winter is riding waves that don't break in summer. The River Mouth, The Harbor and a few underground spots. We have this left at Pleasure Point that on the right angled swell it turns into a little pit. Winter also breaks up the crowd and who doesn't like that.
I would say that my heaviest winter surf trip would have to be to the North Shore. For around 10 years a lot of Santa Cruz boys would go to Hawaii and get pounded. Richard Schmidt showed us a few heavy surfs, I remember Peter Mel charging Waimea Bay as a 15 year old and Barney charging "TUBE CITY" which is inside Kamiland iand it’s heavy when its big.
My favorite winter time warrior would have to be Chris Brown. He is a classic.
Winter time means its a time to be challenged. A time to put your skills to the test. It means cold low pressures. It is a time when on any given swell our region could be the biggest surfable spot on earth. Winter time means you could see Garrett MacNamura at the bakery or Ross Clark Jones on the docks. Winter times means Alpha Males and P.W.Cs, Big wave events and the Cold Water Classic. Winter means "WAVES" and for a lot of people, myself included, it means surf season.
ALISTAIR CRAFT
NK-What does the the approach of winter mean to you? What kinds of feelings and emotions does this approach conjure up? How do you prepare (physically/mentally)?
AC-TO ME, THE APPROACH OF WINTER BRINGS A CERTAIN TYPE OF ANTICIPATION. AS I’VE AGED MY TIME IN THE WATER HAS STEADILY DECREASED, AND IN THE SUMMER I DON’T SURF A WHOLE LOT AS PRIORITIES HAVE SHIFTED. BUT IN THE WINTER MY MOTIVATION KICKS IN AND I DON’T WANT TO MISS A MOMENT WHEN THE CONDITIONS COME TOGETHER AT MY FAVORITE SPOTS. I HAD MY FIRST WINTER SURF THE OTHER DAY AND IT SURPRISED ME HOW STOKED I WAS. I PULLED INTO A CRAPPY CLOSE-OUT BARREL AND DIDN’T COME OUT. WHEN I SURFACED I CLAIMED IT.
MY MENTAL PREPARATION IS PRETTY SIMPLE. I’VE LEARNED TO STAY CALM WHEN ADAM YELLS AT ME. WHAT MORE PREPARATION DO I NEED?
PHYSICALLY, I RIDE MOUNTAIN BIKES IN THE SUMMER WITH MY WIFE AND A COUPLE FRIENDS. SHE’S A PERSONAL TRAINER SO OCCASIONALLY SHE’LL GET ME TO DO ONE OF HER CLASSES. I FIGURE IF I CAN KEEP HER IN MY SITE I’M DOING WELL. I’M PRETTY SURE SHE COULD KICK LAIRD’S ASS.
NK-Whats your favorite part about winter?
AC-I LOVE THE FIRST MORNING THAT YOU SENSE THE SEASON IS CHANGING. YOU WALK OUT YOUR FRONT DOOR AND YOUR TOES AND NOSE FEEL THE CHILL AND YOU KNOW WINTER IS ON ITS WAY. YOU CAN SMELL IT IN THE AIR.
NK-Heaviest Winter surf trip?
AC-IT’S EASIER FOR ME TO RECALL HEAVY MOMENTS RATHER THAN HEAVY TRIPS. THE FUNNY THING IS, WHEN I THINK ABOUT IT, SNIPS IS PART OF MOST OF THOSE MEMORIES. HE HAS A WAY OF LURING ME INTO HEAVY SESSIONS. THE FIRST TRIP I MADE WITH HIM WAS IN 90 SOMETHING WITH TAYLOR KNOX AND RB TO TODOS SANTOS. WE PULL UP AND IT’S GIANT AND BLOWN TO HELL. I ASSUME WE’RE OUT OF THERE AN NEXT THING YOU KNOW SNIPS IS PUTTING HIS WETSUIT ON. I DON’T WANT TO BE THE WUSS SO I START SUITING UP AS WELL. TAYLOR STARTS CURSING SNIPS UNDER HIS BREATH AND NEXT THING YOU KNOW WERE ALL TAKING BEATINGS. BROKEN LEASHES, BROKEN BOARDS, BROKEN ... I CAN REPEAT THIS STORY A DOZEN TIMES IN A DOZEN DIFFERENT LOCATIONS.
NK-Favorite Winter time warrior?
AC-PETER MEL HAS ALWAYS BEEN A FAVORITE, AND IF YOUR ASKING ABOUT WINTERTIME SPECIFICALLY, HE IS THE GUY. UNQUESTIONABLE TALENT IN BIG WAVES. THERE ARE PLENTY OF GUYS LIKE ME, DUMB ENOUGH TO GO ON A BIG ONE, BUT ONLY A HANDFUL OF GUYS THAT “SURF” A BIG WAVE. PETER IS THE BEST. AND MOST IMPORTANTLY PETER IS A GOOD PERSON, HUMBLE AND GENEROUS. MY FAVORITE SURFER IN ALL CONDITIONS IS ADAM REPLOGLE. ASK MOST GUYS IN SANTA CRUZ AND HE’S TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE LIST. BEST STYLE, POSITIONING… I’LL ALWAYS HAVE A PLACE IN MY HEART FOR RUFFO. WE WALK IN DIFFERENT CIRCLES BUT I’VE ALWAYS RESPECTED HIS APPROACH TO SURFING UP HERE. HE DOES’NT JUST SURF THE LANE, HE SURFS EVERY SPOT WHEN IT’S CONDITIONS ARE IDEAL. I LEARNED A LOT FROM HIM THAT WAY. AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST, HOW ABOUT DONKEY DWAYNE? NO ONE SURFS MORE THAN DWAYNE, NO MATTER HOW SHITTY IT IS.
NK-What does Winter time in Santa cruz mean?
AC-I’M PRETTY SURE WHEN I’M OLD AND DECREPID, MY KIDS ARE PUSHING ME AROUND IN MY WHEELCHAIR AND MY UNFORTUNATE WIFE IS CHAINGING MY DIAPERS, MY FONDEST MEMORIES OTHER THAN FAMILY ARE GOING TO BE THE WINTERS THAT ADAM AND I HAVE SPENT AT MOSS LANDING. WE’VE HAD SO MANY GOOD SESSIONS AND SUCH GOOD TIMES THESE PAST FEW YEARS. THEY MAY BE COMING TO AN END SOON FOR VARIOUS REASONS, BUT THE MEMORIES WILL ALWAYS BE THERE.
NK-How do you adjust your quiver for Winter time?
AC-HERE’S HOW I ADJUST MY QUIVER FOR WINTERTIME. I CALL MY SHAPER IN JULY AND ORDER SOME BOARDS. I START BUGGING HIM IN AUGUST. IN SEPTEMBER I HECKLE HIM AND CALL HIM FAT. INOCTOBER I YELL. IN NOVEMBER I TELL HIM I’M GOING TO ORDER BOARDS FROM SOMEONE ELSE. IN DECEMBER I’M A LITTLE NICER TO HIM, BEING CHRISTMAS AND ALL. HE’S VERY SENSITIVE. IN JANUARY I CALL HIM EVERY TIME I’M ON MY WAY FOR A SURF, AND WHEN I’M ON MY WAY HOME. BY FEBRUARY I FIGURE IT’S ALL OVER SO I LEAVE HIM ALONE. THE BOARDS SHOW UP IN MARCH SO I’M LUCKY IF I RIDE THEM ONCE. MAYBE THIS YEAR I’LL START THE PROCESS IN APRIL. BUT THOSE BOARDS ARE WORTH THE WAIT. THE TRUTH IS I’VE BEEN RIDING THE SAME BOARD FOR 4 YEARS AND NO OTHERS COMPARE. THANKS COLE!

SC LEGENDS

The Condor, spreading his wings. photo Patrick Tehan




PETER MEL AKA THE CONDOR, SC LEGEND


Swooping down at break neck speeds, using his gigantic wingspan to steady himself, the Condor falls from the sky. More often than not the Condor (aka Peter Mel), lands smoothly, with style and grace to boot. Pete is arguably one of the most complete surfers on earth, going full bore on anything from 2’ to 50’. Pete has deep Santa Cruz roots, with the incredible ability to make friends wherever he goes (Which helps to explain the fact he’s a South, West, and East side local). Pete helps his dad run Freeline surf shop on 41st avenue, so from time to time you might spot him behind the counter pretending to work. A go to guy for advice or a chat, Pete’s got some knowledge. Nowadays he’s been putting this knowledge and insight to work, by working as a commentator for a number of different QS’s and WCT contests, and you can always count on him to speak his mind. Pete’s a great representative of Santa Cruz and surfing in general, and its good to see him still charging and taking his licks like a young buck.

WTF?

Going for it! photo-jack english (transworldsurf.com)


Giant surf at Mavericks

A core group of hell men recently tackled some of the largest and heaviest surf ever paddled into. As thirty foot bombs detonated upon Maverick’s eerie reef, chargers such as Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Mark Healy, Greg Long, Nic Lamb, Taylor Paul, Lance Herriman, Skin Dog, Alex Martins, Nathan Fletcher and Shawn Dollar all proved their bravery by taking off deep and steep on waves usually reserved for Tow-ins. Guy’s were falling like flies, and Mavericks was all too willing to swat them down mercilessly. While the carnage was considerable, a number of all time rides and awe inspiring feats of fearlessness went down, and it will be a day this group of big wave brethren will surely remember.